EAST NUSA TENGGARA
East Nusa Tenggara is , in many ways different from the rest of Indonesia.
The islands of East NusaTenggara are formed by the protruding peaks of a mountain chain which begins in northern Sumatra, stretching across Java toward the east. But unlike Sumatra, Java and Kalimantan, which are separated from the Asian mainland by shallow seas, the islands of East Nusa Tenggara have apparently always been separated from the Asian landmass by deep sea-beds. The arid landscape of eastern and southeastern Nusa Tenggara is the result of hot and dry winds coming from the Australian continent. In many coastal areas not a drop of rain falls during most of the year. The rainfall varies between 50 mm and 200 mm a year.
Temperatures vary from hot in coastal areas (30 - 35 degree C) to very cool in mountainous areas (about 15 - 17 degree C).
The province of East Nusa Tenggara comprises 566 islands. The three main islands are Flores, Sumba, and Timor.
Flores, a long island located between Sumbawa and Timor, is strewn with volcanoes in a mountain chain dividing it into several regions with distinctive languages and traditions, scenic beauty, good beaches, and natural wonders. The name is Portuguese for "flower", as the Portuguese were the first Europeans to colonize East Nusa Tenggara.
Occupying a unique position at the junction of the Australian and Asian submarine ridges, between the two distinct fauna regions marked by the Wallace Line, here is one of the world's most dynamic marine environments with nearly every species of coral and tropical fish represented.
Predominantly Catholic, there are several examples of its Portuguese cultural heritage like the Easter Procession held in Larantuka, and the royal regalia of the former king in Maumere.
Sumba, formerly known as the Sandalwood island, is known for its horses and Sumba cloth. The island is famous for its arts and handicrafts, particularly the textile "ikat" weaving.
Sumba, however, is not for everyone. Neither the food nor accommodation are up to international standards. But if you are willing to make some sacrifices, you can see an authentic, ancient culture with none of the layers of Hinduism or Islam mostly found elsewhere in the country.
The island is roughly oval in shape. The greatest concentration of those who worship spirits (ancestral and those of the land) is found in West Sumba where two-thirds of the population hold on to their traditional belief. It is here where incredible rituals take place, o.a. the "pasola" where hundreds of horsemen fling spears at each other. (The government allows the ritual to take place, but the spears must be blunt).
Although some exist in East Sumba, it is in West Sumba that one can find a greater number of huge megalithic tombs and traditional thatched and peaked huts raised on stilts.
Many traditional activities, all with a part paying homage to the spirits, take place in the months of July through October. These include the building of "adat" houses and burials when sometimes hundreds of pigs, water buffaloes, horses, and dogs are sacrificed. Other ceremonies include the "pajura" or traditional boxing, the festivals for the lunar new year in October and November, and August 17, Independence Day, horse races and ritual dances.
Timor is the principal island in terms of population where the capital of the province, Kupang, is located.
Kupang is now being developed to be the gate-way to Nusa Tenggara. There are direct flights from/to Darwin-Australia.
Timor is rich in various cultures, beautiful sceneries, and a wonderful nature.
Made up of dry, rocky land, isolated communities, rolling cattle land, a variety of styles of architecture, Timor is basically something that possesses its own original characteristics.
Unlike some other parts of East Nusa Tenggara, the roads in Timor are generally good and public transportation is relatively well developed.
Tourist facilities are developing and improving in many ways; fair accommodations have been provided for, roads are improving, and tourist spots easier accessible.
PLACES OF INTEREST
Lasiana Beach
Camplong
A lovely community about 45 km from Kupang with regular market days and a natural swimming pool, where traditionally people bathe, do their laundry, and socialize.
Camplong is also a forest reserve where some scarce animals, such as deer (Cervus Timorensis), parrots, monkeys, etc. in the reservation, are protected.
Kupang
The only sandalwood oil factory in Indonesia is located in this town. Here one can see the distillation of sandalwood oil which is famous in East Nusa Tenggara.
The Museum in Kupang has on display items of historical and cultural value.
Semau Island
It is a holiday village for everyone and a good places for relax as it offers a haven for those from the city. The surrounding waters is a paradise for snorkeling, swimming, and other water sports.
Barbecue on the beach is desirable. Bamboo cottages are available right on the white sandy beaches.
Maumere
A port town on the northeastern coast of Flores and a stopover on the way to Ende or to Larantuka. It is well connected by air with Kupang, Denpasar, and Ujung Pandang, and noted for its good beaches.
The bay of Maumere is considered a good diving spot (Flores Marine Resort) as it promises extremely rich marine life.
The resort is a paradise for all divers, underwater photographers, and for everyone interested in marine biology.
Ledalero museum at the out skirts of Maumere has an interesting collection of ethnological objects from the region. Visitors are welcome but advance arrangements should be made. Ledalero is also a name of a major catholic Seminary from where many of Flores priests originated.
Kelimutu
East Nusa Tenggara's natural wonder and one of Indonesia's most mysterious and dramatic sights can be found on top of this mountain, some 66 km from Ende, or 83 km from Maumere. It has a unique and spectacular view on its three crater lakes with their respective colors.
The colors, however, have changed continually since the eruption of Mount Iya in Ende in 1969. The surrounding villages are good places serving as bases for visits to Kelimutu, particularly those who wish to have a more leisurely pace and enjoy the views along the road between Ende and Maumere, or spend more time at Kelimutu. Those little villages are also known for their excellent weaving, all hand- made, still using natural dyes.
Labuanbajo
A little town inhabited by fishermen, lies at the extreme western part of Flores. The town serves as a jumping-off point for the trip to Komodo Island.
It is a beautiful area for water skiing, wind surfing, fishing, and many other marine activities. Pede Beach is an ideal place to do all this and from where sunsets are beautifully visible.
Soe
Ende
This town contains the home in-exile of former and first Indonesian president, Soekarno, while in banishment during the early period of nationalist movements in 1936. The house has been repaired and is today a museum.
Komodo Island
A small island of 280 square km, Komodo is located between the islands of Sumbawa and Flores. It is almost all hill and barren except for palm trees and some wood but it is famous for its giant lizards which are considered the last of their kind remaining in the world today. To many modern naturalists, East Nusa Tenggara is so particularly interesting, because of this unique species, called the Komodo Dragon. Called "ora" by the local people, Komodo "dragon" (Varanus Komodoensis) is actually a giant monitor lizard. Growing up to 3 to 4 meters in length, its ancestors roamed the earth up to about half a million years ago.
Komodos live on carrions of goats, deer, and even the carcasses of its own kind. The only human population on the island is at the fishing village called Komodo too who supplement their income breeding goats which are used to feed the lizards.
The Komodo is protected by law and though they are considered harmless, it is advisable to keep them at a distance. Komodo is now a nature reserve being part of a national park. It is home to a number of rare bird species, deer, and wild pigs, which are prey to the lizards as well.
To see the lizards in the day time, baits have to be set in the hinterland where local guides are necessary. The sea surrounding the island offers vistas of sea life, crystal clear waters, and white sandy beaches. The only accommodation available is in simple guest houses in the fishing village.
It is advisable to carry food supplies. The best time to visit the island is between March and June, and between October and December. Komodo is accessible from the sea only. Fly to Labuan Bajo, from where it is about 3-4 hours by boat to the island.
Larantuka
An Old Portuguese cultural heritage like the Easter Procession is held in this town, and worth seeing. Flores people are very outgoing and friendly. Their bemos are brightly painted with murals on the sides and their radios are blasting the latest tunes. Lots of Catholic churches line the roads with a few mosques sprinkled in. Larantuka is a pleasant little town on the Far East end of Flores. There is a harbor in town and another one a few kilometers away where the ferryboat leaves to Kupang and Rote in West Timor. The boats going to Alor leave from the one in town. There are a number of tuna boats at the docks. They have a big square platform on the bow where fishermen line up with bamboo poles line up flipping hooked tunas.
Lamalera Whale Hunting
Waikabubak
A neat little town in Western Sumba, full of old graves carved in motifs of buffalo-horns, man-heads, horses, nude men or women symbolizing social status or the wealth of the people. Right in the capital city of Waikabubak, you can see the following tombs: Kadung Tana, Watu Karagata, and Bulu Peka Mila. Tarung village, an important ceremonial center, is located on top of a hill, just a half kilometer to the west of Waikabubak.
There are several megalithic tombs. The front of many traditional houses are decorated with huge water buffalo horns from the animals sacrificed during rituals of years gone by.
Anakalang
The village is about 20 km from Waikabubak with its large graveyard (the largest megalithic tombs in Sumba). The tombs are always with unusual carvings. Anakalang is the site of the "Purung Takadonga", an important mass marriage festival held every two years, on a date determinated by the full moon.
Pasola
The most exciting ritual of Sumba is to be witnessed right here. Where else in the world can you see colorful horsemen trying to kill each other.
The ceremony is in February in Lamboya and Kodi, and in March in Gaura and Wanukaka. The main activities start several days after the full moon and coincide with the yearly arrival to shore of strange, multi-hued seaworms.
East Sumba
This region is better known for its "ikat" weaving. Near Waingapu, Kuta Beach is a good place to relax, and further down coast, near Baing (125 km from Waingapu), there is great surfing at Kalala Beach. The waves are best from December to May.
Shopping Hints
Accommodation
East Nusa Tenggara has several hotels but only small number with star ratings, where most of them are one-star hotels.
